Home Repair Tips – Sink and Basin Traps

Filed Under: Do it yourself, Home repair, Plumbing, Remodeling    by: ITC

When you look at the gooseneck shape of the trap under a sink or basin, it looks as if someone put it there to catch dirt and clog the drain line. It does trap everything from hair to wristwatches. But the real purpose of the trap is to keep sewer gas and germs from getting back into the house. Water runs through the trap, but there is always enough left behind in the bottom of the trap to make an airtight seal.

There are four basic ways to clear a clogged trap:

• With a plunger

• With a small plumber’s snake

• By removing the cleanout plug if the trap has one

• By removing the trap

The best and safest way of clearing a trap is with a plunger. Chemicals sometimes work, but when they don’t, you have a trap full of a toxic and dangerous substance besides

Every plumbing fixture—sink, basin, bathtub, toilet and floor drain—has a trap. The trap prevents sewer gas and germs from entering the home. a clogged drain. If the sink has an overflow, as most bathroom basins do, you will have to cover the overflow with a sponge or a rag while you are plunging. Double sinks or laundry basins present a similar problem. Water will be forced through the sink you are not plunging. Where a plunger won’t work, a plumber’s snake will sometimes clear the drain. Turn the crank to work it around bends in the pipe.

To use a plunger put a little petroleum jelly around the force cup to make a tighter seal. Place the plunger over the clogged drain and run two or three inches of water into the sink. Press down firmly on the plunger. As you pull up, a vacuum is created to loosen the clog. If the plunger doesn’t work, try a plumber’s snake (auger).

Every plumbing fixture—sink, basin, bathtub, toilet and floor drain—has a trap. The trap prevents sewer gas and germs from entering the home.

Some traps have a cleanout plug. Put a pail under the trap and remove the plug. Use a piece of stiff wire to clean out the trap. Replace the washer and plug. If that doesn’t work or if there is no cleanout plug, remove the trap. An old trap may be corroded or even fall apart when you remove it. Replace it with a plastic lasts longer, and is less expensive. If the trap is still usable, run a wire through to clear it.

A little petroleum jelly will help the ends go back together. Tighten the slip nuts by hand and then slightly more with a wrench. Run some water through to make sure there are no leaks.

A trap with a cleanout plug is fairly easy to clean. Use a piece of wire to break the clog.

Double sinks are connected to the same drain. This may also be true when sinks are back-to-back with a wall between. It is useless to plunge one without blocking the other. One solution may be a plumber’s snake (auger).

To remove a trap, put a pail or pan under the trap. Loosen the slip nuts and pull the trap loose. If the trap is not clogged, the problem is farther down the line. Run an auger through the pipe that enters the wall.

Repairing Home Appliances

Filed Under: Do it yourself, Electrical, Home repair    by: ITC

When appliances don’t work properly, the plug is often the problem. Prongs may be broken or bent. Wires may be burnt where they attach to the prongs. The plug itself may be split or cracked.

There are two basic types of plugs:

• Clamp-on plugs

• Wired plugs

Clamp-on plugs are easiest to replace. They have no screws and require no stripping. Cut damaged plug, and separate the wires for about 1/4 inch. Open the clamp or lever on the new plug and simply insert the wire ends into the plug. Close the clamp or lever, and the plug is ready for use. Clamp-on plugs should be used only for light-duty use, such as lamp cords.

To repair a wired plug take out the cardboard or plastic cover and loosen the screws. Pull the wires farther through the plug and cut off the bad ends. Separate the two wires for about 1-1/2 inches and strip 1/2 inch of insulation off the ends. Twist the copper strands so they will not separate easily. To relieve the stress on the plug and on the copper wire, tie an “underwriters knot”.

Pull the knot back into the plug cap and wrap the bare wire ends around the screws in the direction the screw tightens. Tighten the screws and replace the cover.

If your plug has three prongs repair it the same as a two-prong plug. Make an underwriters knot with the black and white wires. Attach the third green wire to the green screw. Attach the white wire to the silver screw and black wire to the brass screw. Be sure none of the bare wires are touching each other. Replace the protective cover.

Some plugs are completely cased in rubber. If one of these plugs goes bad, unplug the appliance and cut off the bad plug.

Broken electrical plugs are often because of appliance failure. Plugs are frequently stepped on or kicked accidentally. Common damage includes bent and broken or burnt wires, and damaged plug casings.

With a two prong plug, separate the wires for about an inch and a half and strip off the insulation for about 1/2 inch. Scrape the wire until it shines and twist the copper ends so they hold together.

Tie an underwriters knot in this way. This knot puts the pull on the insulation instead of the wire. If this knot is not used, the wire may come loose in a short time, especially if the plug is removed by pulling on the cord.

After the knot is pulled into the plug cap, the stripped wire is wound around the screws in the direction that the screw will be turned to tighten. This pulls the wire in under the screw. If the wire is looped in the opposite direction it will be pushed away as the screw is tightened.

Home Repair Tips – Electricity

Filed Under: Do it yourself, Electrical, Home repair    by: ITC

In this age of electricity, modern homes have more and more electricity built into them. In home maintenance and repair, knowledge about electricity is a must. It is important to know which electrical jobs you can handle and when to call an electrician.

People who work with electricity are called electricians. As specialists, they put wires in houses, install fuse boxes or panels, repair large electrical appliances, work on doorbells, and generally handle all common electrical equipment problems.

The most common house current is ’110 volt, 60 hertz per second alternating current (called AC). AC is a type of electricity that “alternates.” This means that it changes its direction of flow as it passes through a wire. Sixty hertz AC is electricity that changes its direction of flow 60 times each second.

Another current, 220 volt AC is also available for use in most homes. It is very dangerous to work with, and a qualified electrician should be called in if you suspect trouble in a 220 volt circuit.

Electricity may be dangerous, but it is not difficult to work with if you follow certain basic rules. The following units include the basic safety rules for working with electricity and explain simple electrical repairs you can make around the house.

When speaking of electricity, the word hot means charged with electricity. Hot also means dangerous. To avoid danger when working with electricity, follow these rules:

• Assume that all electrical wires and parts are hot

• Always check to make sure that the electricity is turned off before starting or continuing any electrical work

• Never turn on the electricity for someone else unless asked to do so

• Always check for electricity with a circuit tester

• Never work with wires or electrical equipment in wet or damp places Electricity is invisible. You can’t tell

if a wire is hot by looking at it. Things that electricity can run through are called conductors. Things that electricity cannot run through are called insulators. Electricity runs well through most metals and through water. So wires and electrical parts are made of metal. Because the human body is mostly water, it also makes a good conductor of electricity. Always be careful around electricity!

When you are working with appliances, you can turn off the electricity by pulling the plug. Most shop work is done this way. But when you are working on wiring in a house you must turn off the electricity in a different way.

All house wiring runs to a fuse box or breaker box. A fuse or breaker in this box completes each circuit. Too much electricity flowing through a wire could make it hot enough to melt and cause a fire. To prevent this, the fuse will melt or the circuit breaker will open automatically when the wires get too hot. This opens the circuit and stops the flow of electricity. The electricity can also be stopped by removing the fuse or opening the circuit breaker by hand.

The circuit breaker box and the fuse box have a main switch. This switch turns on or off all the electricity in the house. When electricians are working they will padlock the main switch in the off position and tag it.

A careful electrician tests bare wires with a circuit tester. A circuit tester is made of two wire probes and a small bulb which glows if electricity is flowing through the wire being checked.

Fuses are designed to melt and break the circuit when the flow of electricity becomes too great. Removing the fuse will also break the circuit.

The main switch on a fuse or circuit breaker box controls all the electricity in the house.

Blown fuses must be replaced. Blown circuit breakers, however, may be reset by hand.

On fuse boxes the switch may be locked open to insure that the electricity remains off. On circuit breaker boxes, the main switch is thrown and the cover is then locked.

Most circuit testers are made of two wires or probes and a neon bulb. The two probes are touched to the wires. If the bulb glows, the wires are hot (electricity is flowing). Circuit testers have different voltage ratings so be sure you are using the correct type.

Safety Tips for Using Tools

Filed Under: Crafts, Do it yourself, Redecorating, Remodeling, Tools    by: ITC
Hammer time

Hammer time

By themselves, tools are not dangerous. Tools become dangerous only in the hands of a careless person. The best safety rules for handling tools are the simplest:

• Keep all tools in good condition

• Use the correct tool for the job

• Put away all tools when you are not using them

• Keep your working area neat and clean

• Know which end of a tool cuts, and always keep that end turned away from yourself and other people

• Use power tools that are grounded or double-insulated

• Wear eye protection when you use tools that make flying chips

• Keep power tool guards in place

People can stumble and fall on a sharp saw or chisel. They can accidentally knock a hammer off a bench on to someone’s foot. If everything is put away, all the time, accidents like these become rare.

Tools in good shape are easier and safer to work with. Dull chisels, loose hammer heads, and broken screwdrivers should be repaired or replaced.

Tools that are safely put away do not cause accidents and injury.

Everyone knows what a nail or a screw is—until a store clerk asks which kind you want. There are many to choose from. The most common fasteners are:

• Tacks, nails, and brads

• Screws

• Nuts and bolts

Tacks have large heads. Brads are small nails. Nails are sized by the “penny” (d): the bigger the penny number, the larger the nail. Some nails have extra-large heads to keep from pulling through soft material. Finish nails or casing nails have very small heads so they can be set below the surface. This is done with a nail set. The holes are then puttied over. There are even special nails to be driven into concrete.

Screws also come in many types and sizes. Their size is based on the thickness of the shank. Screw gages tell how thick the shank is. Most screws with flat heads can be driven so they are flush with the surface. This is called countersinking.

Countersinking and drilling for flathead screws. If you have to sink a large number of screws, buy a special bit that drills both size holes and countersinks all at once. A little wax rubbed on the screw thread will make it easy to drive the screw into the wood.

Nuts and bolts are also good fasteners. They come in different sizes and are used for different jobs. Nuts, bolts, and machine screws (those used for metal) have a number telling the diameter of the shank, followed by another number which tells how many threads per inch. For example a 1/4-20 bolt has a 1/4 inch shank and 20 threads per inch.

Image

Home Repair Tips – Safety

Filed Under: Do it yourself, Home repair, Redecorating, Remodeling    by: ITC

Every trade or craft has its own safety rules. Safety rules are simply common sense. They are intended to keep people from hurting themselves. Because home maintenance and repair people work with many different types of tools and materials, they need to know how to prevent accidents more than anyone else. Always remember:

• Tools will cut, stab, or hurt people only if they are handled carelessly

• Power tools must always be turned off when not in use

• Tools not in use should be put away

• Tools in bad condition may cause accidents

• Electricity is invisible. Assume it is present in every wire unless you have turned it off yourself and checked to make sure it is off

• Strange odors from chemicals or paint can injure and kill people

• Many cleaners and paint thinners will explode if exposed to fire or extreme heat

• Goggles protect eyes from chips thrown by tools

• Open flames must be turned off when not in use

• Neatness prevents accidents of all kinds

A number of tools are necessary for good repair work. Proper use of tools makes the work neater and more professional looking. Improper use of tools causes more accidents and injuries than any other kind of carelessness.

The basic safety rules for using any hand tools are:

• Use the right tool for the job

• Never. use dull cutting tools

• Keep/tools repaired

• Turn off electrical tools when not in use

• Make sure work being drilled or cut is properly clamped

Safety equipment such as goggles for eye protection and insulated gloves for working with hot objects like soldered tubing should be kept handy.

The most important safety rule to remember is to use common sense and think ahead. Don’t unscrew a water pipe unless the water pressure is turned off. Cold water may ruin the house. Hot water may ruin you. Gas pipes are even more dangerous.

Keep in mind that a saw that will cut a four by four oak post can also cut off a finger. Flames used to melt lead will cook a careless hand. Something that dissolves paint may also dissolve skin!

How to Build Your Own Tiki Bar

Filed Under: Crafts, Do it yourself, Kitchen, Redecorating, Remodeling    by: ITC

Build Your Own Tiki Bar

If you are planning a luau or a tiki party, the best option would be to build your own tiki bar and transform a part of your home into a paradise. To follow the following techniques on creating a tiki bar, it doesn’t matter if you haven’t built anything in your life before. All you need to do is tag along these tips for adding a feel to your home atmosphere.

The first thing you need is a table, that is, the bar itself. Any old or sturdy table would do. Cover it with an external design such as a counter top or something. If you wish to build your own table, you can go ahead. You will find most of the requirements for this at your own place. However, always remember that the cost of the home-made table is determined by its size. So larger the size of the table, the more expensive it is.

A table cloth having an attractive design is appropriate for the counter top. If your house is located in a tropical location, then using disposable table cloth can be a good idea. One of the most striking techniques is using the table cloth and party items according to the theme of your party.

There are various ways you can work on the roof part. Bamboos for the roof structure of your tiki bar are best to suit your party theme. However, if you don’t find good ones, you can also go for wooden posts. To add a touch of authenticity to your tiki bar, you can purchase well-designed, well-carved, and well-shaped tiki moldings.

Simplest method is by using straws. Many home depots as well as plant places have the straw you require for the tiki bar roof. You can also go for large palm fronds or large leaves, if you find it easier to get hold of them. Have them attached to a light piece of plywood. Another option is purchasing thatched glass panels.

It is best to fix your tiki bar all together after getting your tiki hut roof joint on the ground. Once you are done with fixing your tiki hut structure, you can start decorating it with frangipani candles, straw mats stuck on sand, spooky god statues, and other several ideas offered by your imagination.

Certain important points to remember while working on your tiki bar project:

The toughest part in building your own tiki bar is finding decent roof material. However, this is not much of a problem if you stay near a coast or in a large city. If ever there’s any such problem, you can turn to transaction sites for inexpensive and attractive roof materials.

It is not compulsory to have a countertop. Using cheap table clothes can also do, provided, they go well with the party theme.

The cost of constructing a tiki bar increases with its size.

A profitable and fun-based business is building tiki bars and then, selling them at large amounts. Ready made tiki bars usually range from $800 to thousands of dollars. There are many who have the building and selling of their tiki bars as their main source of income.

How to Build Your Own Wind Turbine

Filed Under: Crafts, Do it yourself, Electrical    by: ITC

Wind turbines can be built at home using different ways. However, all of them require the following major parts:

  1. A tower
  2. Blades
  3. An electronic control system
  4. Batteries
  5. A generator
  6. A mounting

The simplest way to start building your wind turbine is utilizing permanent magnet DC motors as power generators. Avoid going for those computer tape drive motors. The best option is the 99 volt DC motor made by Ametek. However, if you don’t get an access to it, you can go for other Ametek models which also make good generators.

Once done with fixing a decent generator, your next task is finding a hub and blades to connect to it. You can create your own blades by slicing them out of wood. However, this requires tremendous amount of effort. A more promising option is carving blades out of a PVC pipe and forming them into airfoils.

A six inch pipe that is 24 inches long is appropriate for the task. Cut the pipe lengthwise around the circumference in 4 equal pieces. Use a palm sander or a belt sander on the cut edges of the blades to give them some extra smoothing.

For the hub, select a toothed pulley that is more likely to fit easily in the motor shaft. If the pulley turns out to be smaller to bolt the blades in perfectly, you can have it fixed along with some aluminum disk after cutting it into the required size, to make a proper drilled, tapped, and bolted hub. After drilling and mounting holes in the blades, you can have them attached to your hub.

The same shop from where you purchased the PVC pipe can also provide you with vent caps that are dome shaped. These can act as the spinner to your hub. However, this is a crucial step, since some spinners are likely to spoil the effectiveness of blades.

For the mounting, connect the motor to a preferable sized piece of wood. To protect it from tough weather, make a covering out of a piece of the PVC pipe. Use a heavy aluminum piece for the tail. For free turning of the head in the wind, use 1 1/3 inch conduit for the tower and fittings of 1 inch pipe at both ends. Then, attach a 1 inch iron flange to the generator end and rivet a 10 inch iron pipe to fix into it. Pass wires from the generator through the center of the conduit unit to the tower base.

Make a U-shaped cut from a 1 inch pipe for your tower base. In its middle, assemble a Tee that is 1 ¼ inch long. Add a close nipple of 12 inch. Also add a 1 inch Tee from this nipple to the reducer.

Once you have sorted out the mechanical parts, you require fixing the electronic part of your project. This would include a couple of batteries to store the energy generated by the turbine, a secondary load where energy from turbine can be stored while batteries are full, a controller charge for running everything, and a diode that can prevent wastage of batteries while spinning the generator.

About Us | Contact Us | Privacy Policy | Site Map
©2004-2011 Indy Total Construction